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So in this video, we're going 

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to be running our moulds
 with silicon to make silicon appliances.

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So here I've got four moulds
 that I'm going to be prepping.

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They're made of different silicon, 

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so this mould here,
 the clear one is made of QC 25.

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They green one
 here is made of Platsil gel 25.

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And then the two blue moulds are
 Key-22 silicon.

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So start off with I'm
 just going to take some petroleum jelly,

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and I'm just going to 

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massage this into the moulds 

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to act as a release agent. 

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So we want to make sure 

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we go all over where our wounds are
 or where our sculpts have been,

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and also into our flashing areas as well.

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And then what I'm going to do next
 is just to make sure I've not got

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I've got a nice thin
 layer, so you don't want a thick layer.

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You don't want it sitting in any detail
 because it will prevent

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your pieces from capturing that detail.

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You want it to have a nice thin layer. 

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So just to make sure 

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it's in all the nooks and crannies,
 but also it's nice and thin.

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I'm just going to use
 a brush and a hairdryer.

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And then once the Vaseline has set again,

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they're ready to ruin cap plastic in.

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So now we've applied petroleum jelly
 into our moulds.

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We're going to put in our cap plastic 

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and I'm going to be using an airbrush
 to spray this into the moulds.

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The cap plastic I'm using is Baldiez
 and then to protect myself, I'm

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going to have the extraction on, I'm
 going to be wearing gloves and an apron,

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a face mask
 and also goggles to protect myself.

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Always check the manufacturer's
 instructions.

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I'm working with these products
 as some may vary.

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The dilution ratio I like to use
 is one part of the cap plastic

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to five parts of the acetone,
 which I'm going to mix

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in my measuring cup
 before I put it into the airbrush.

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So I'm going to spray evenly

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over the mould about three
 to five layers of the mixture

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through the airbrush. 

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So now the cap 

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plastics dry, I'm just going to take
 a little pin and lift the edges

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and you know, you've got enough layers
 if there's no holes in there,

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if there is some holes
 you'll maybe need to spray another layer

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or two of the cap plastic on.

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So the next step is to add 

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the silicon into the moulds
 now we've ran the cap plastic into them.

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I've got a ProGel 10 silicone part A
 and B, which

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I've already dicanted just to make it
 easier to mix in smaller amounts.

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And I've also got some ProGel
 softner as well.

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So I'm adding in the softener
 because these are going to be prosthetics.

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So I'm actually going to add
 in 100% of the softner.

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I'm going to mix equal parts of my A and B

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then I'm going to double that
 with my softner.

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It means the prosthetics are soft
 and they move with the face,

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they're almost a little bit jelly like,
 so they're really maneuverable,

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which is why we spray in the cap plastic,
 because otherwise it'd be really sticky.

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And along with that, I'm
 also going to pigment my silicon as well.

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So there's different things
 that you can use. 

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I like to add in a little bit
 of flesh powder with some red flocking,

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but you can also use things
 like silicone pigments as well.

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So I've just degassed the 

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silicon, and now I'm going to pour it
 into the moulds.

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I'm just going to spread

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the silicon out nice and evenly

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using the spatula. 

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I want to make sure all the areas covered

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including the flashing. 

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And the next step
 is to just take a scraper

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and with even pressure along the mould,
 you're going to scrape off the excess

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and it's almost at a 45 degree angle.

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The final step is just to take
 a cotton swab

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and literally just go along
 the very edge of your sculpt.

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This is to take off any silicon
 because you want this edge

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just to be cap plastic, so it's easier

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to blend the edge. 

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So we filled our moulds with the silicon
 now we've got the deadner in there,

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so we're going to have to leave them
 for a little while to cure up.

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Join us in our next video
 I will be actually demoulding

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these and going through the
 application process with you.