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Right,

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so follow on from our last video with the EcoBoost engine,

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this is a similar unit, but we've obviously removed it
to make it easier to have a look at it.

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So major components so cold side of the unit then

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we're still on the alloy pipework worth
checking this for cracks.

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It's pretty rare, but sometimes if the unit's suffered
excessive heat inside an engine bay.

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There is an opportunity for these items to crack,
so check all connections.

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Common cause of loss to boost pressure
is the intake pipes themselves that bolt on to the unit.

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So check all your hoses and connections
before we automatically assume the fault inside here. OK.

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This side of the unit is cast iron,
so we're back on the hot side of the unit.

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So there is actually a clamp between the two
and this is what holds these two halves together.

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So if you send a unit off to be refurbished, they'll strip
the whole unit out to the last nut, bolt, and washer.

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They'll remove the impeller,
which we'll have a look at in a bit in more detail,

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and then they'll measure all the units. Items that are reusable.

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They'll strip them
clean them, vapor blast them, rebuild them.

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Units that are scrap or damaged.

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They will strip out and then replace with new components.

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Rebuild it, spin it up on a bench to bench test it.

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They'll then test it
and then they'll get it balanced on a specialist rig,

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repackage it, put it back together, put it in a box,
send it back under warranty.

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Then you've got a new unit to fit.

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OK, so we have got a

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solenoid valve, a boost valve in there,
which is fitted into there.

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It's sole job is to measure the pressure
inside this part of the system

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and then send information back to the engine computer.

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OK, if there is an issue with over boosting
what the engine computer will do

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is it will ease back on the r.p.m.

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and the throttle and timing sensors,
and it will tell the engine

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to ease back on it
until the boost is down to an acceptable level.

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In extreme cases, it will put the engine management light on
and it will go into reduced

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operating mode
until you kind of switch the engine off and reset it.

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OK, so for modifying units,

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if you go over the manufacturer's standard boost settings,

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then it will start to flag up
as faults further on in the system.

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OK, so this is obviously why vehicles are mapped,

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and people who specialize in this kind of tuning
can kind of get more performance out of your engine.

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OK, so we've got that side, if we have a look on the back
edge here, we can see the gravity.

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So that's the return pipe to the sump.

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OK, it's been removed on this one.

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So because the unit was stripped out for refurbishment,
we've got a blank on the top here.

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So that's for an oil take off on a different system.

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These turbine units are generally kind of generic,
and then they modify them for

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whatever application and vehicle they are fitted on.

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We've got the waste gate actuator on here.

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So this is a vacuum operated unit, and if I turn it around
briefly, you can see the vacuum pipe coming off.

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So what happens is the engine under vacuum
will then generate movement inside this actuator.

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It's actually quite hefty to move by hand.

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You can move it, though.

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What happens is the pressure then overrides the spring,

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which then opens the waste gate inside the unit.

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OK, and the purpose of this is any over pressurized
part of the system.

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It will dump this excess pressure
back into the exhaust system.

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This allows the turbine to keep running
and then we haven't got a thing called turbo lag.

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So turbo lag is when we're spinning the engine up
and there's good gas flow.

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We shut off the throttle to go around a corner.

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And then when we reapply the boost,
the turbo has to spin back up to speed.

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OK, so lag in early vehicles was quite drastic.

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You could physically count for a few seconds
before the turbo cut back in

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which made for some in spirited cornering.

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So the general trick with older vehicles
was don't accelerate

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going around corners
because it'll try and launch it through the hedge.

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OK, so what we've done with these
now we have an actuator on.

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We can test this with a vacuum pump
physically with it stationary.

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So if we pump it up and the actuator arm moves, great,

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if it doesn't, there's a diaphragm in here
which is probably split.

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These units aren't serviceable,
so if you've got a split diaphragm

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in an actuator, really,
it's a case of replacing it with new unit.

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These are adjustable.

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They come from the factory preset.

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They've generally got paint on them
and they're locked in place.

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I wouldn't recommend adjusting them.

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The problem is is if you adjust it,
we're starting to affect how the waste gate operates.

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If it opens too early, we're going to lose boost pressure,
if it opens too late or not at all.

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Then we're going to overboost the system,
which is either going to damage the turbocharger

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or potentially the engine itself.

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So over boosting is not a good thing.

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So I would say with an actuator,
they come set from the factory.

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If you buy a new unit, they're already adjusted.

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They tell you to measure between here and here.

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And as long as it's within specification,
you can fit the unit and then it's suitable for use.

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Another cause of low boost is this actuator arm seizes up.

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If the customer drives the vehicle gently
and they never get to full, boost

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this arm, instead of moving
that far will literally only move part of the travel

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because it's cast
iron and it's in the side that generates carbon.

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You can actually get sticking actuator arm.

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So the cure for this remove the actuator arm itself
and physically with a cold engine,

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just move the waste gate actuator backwards and forwards.

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If it moves freely, great, we can reassemble it.

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If it doesn't, then we need to disconnect the front part
of the exhaust system

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and physically have a look from the other end.

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If it's coked up, it's got carbon buildup.

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We can clean that, refit the unit and then retest it.

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So don't necessarily assume to fix turbo faults
we've got to strip the whole unit off the car.

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So Discovery 2TD5, this is quite common problem

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and literally five minutes,
little bit of WD 40 on a cold engine.

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We can work this backwards and forwards and then free off
for another six months of use without having an issue.

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OK, the issue was things like this
is it creeps up on you slowly.

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So instead of a sudden loss of pressure,
it'll gradually get less and less.

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OK, so just for basic service checks and check

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for physical breaks and operation
before we start condemning the main unit.

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OK, so if we turn the unit over on the other side,

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we can see the return pipe there, which is just bolted on.

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There is a metal gasket that sits under these.

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When you replace one of these units,
you must replace all the O rings and gaskets.

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They generally come in a kit.

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So if you buy a service kit for a turbocharger,
it will come with the cartridge

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and all the O rings and pipes to connect it back up.

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As we said in the previous video, don't reuse old components

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because you will negate the warranty on any units
you've bought.

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OK, this unit itself is actually a fixed vane turbocharger.

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There are variable vane systems, and what they do
is they actually change the size of the chambers

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inside the turbocharger, therefore giving you more boost
at low speeds and then more power at high speed.

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The only disadvantage with those
is they're horrendously expensive,

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and they have to have a second actuator
unit on to change the size of this chamber.

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And that something we'll cover in a later
video is a variable vane unit.

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What most manufacturers do now is they fit multiple units,
so they'll fit two turbochargers instead of one.

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They'll have one small unit for low speed torque
and then one bigger unit for high speed power.

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And this is an installation
we'll have a look in a later video.
