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Good morning.

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This video, we're going to have a look
at removing brake caliper

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and pads, measure and assess, and then refit.

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For the purposes of this demonstration,
we're going to be using the rig.

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So that means we've got better visibility

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and we've got a brand new set of brakes,
so we don't need to do the cleaning side of things.

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So if we remove the caliper first, so

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we're using 7mm Alan Key.

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Just be careful removing the caliper bolts
that you keep them in the same order they come out as.

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Some vehicles do have them fitted
and they're different lengths.

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Right, what we're looking for here

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as we remove them, we're checking to see the threads
aren't damaged and everything is kind of moving smoothly.

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We can then take the bolts out.

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Right,

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and generally on an older vehicle,
these will have corrosion and dirt on here.

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So you need to wire brush them just to clean them
and then have really thin

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smear of grease
for reassembly to save them from seizing later on.

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If they seize that results in

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uneven pad wear and failure of the components before their time.

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So as we can see with this one,

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they're both the same length,
but always worth keeping them in order that they came off.

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So when we refit, the same component goes in the same slot.

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So to remove the brake calipers,
we're going to need to compress the piston slightly inside,

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so especially on a car as well.

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If we remove the cap on the reservoir.

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Give it a wipe around on the top,
we'll put that somewhere safe for refitting.

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And what we do is
we put a small piece of rag in the top of that.

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What happens is when we compress the piston,

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the fluid level inside here will rise back up.

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If somebody's over filled it previously,

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that fluid will then spill over,
run down the master cylinder

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and then the customer will think they've got a leak
after you've done the job.

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And obviously, when we put it back together,
we can clean the top of the reservoir

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and then put the cap back on
and then we know the job's all square and done.

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OK. So to remove the caliper, we've got the slider bolts out

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so we can now need to take the clip off the side.

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OK, so I'll move around the other side with a screwdriver.

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What we can do now is we can remove the spring clip.

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OK, take care to kind of keep

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hold of it as it comes out because they are quite tight fit.

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But that clip is now free.

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So as you can see now, the caliper will move.

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So we give the caliper
a slight twist to push the piston back in

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 you can just see that fractional movement there
that's all we need.

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And now we can remove the caliper itself.

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We've got the pads in situ
and then we've got the brake disc.

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So what I'm going to do is I'm going to put the caliper

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on the frame for now just to keep it safe.

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And then I'm going to remove the brake disc

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because it is a new setup we can take it off quite easily.

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Sometimes you need a bit of a tap
with a mallet just to remove it.

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OK, so this brake disc, vented disc.

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OK, so twin rotors.

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Measurement wise, we measure across there with a micrometer.

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We don't need to on this occasion because it's a new unit.

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But if you look on the side of there,

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we have actually got a thickness minimum limit of 20 mm.

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OK, if we measure this brake disc with the micrometer,
and it's less than 20 millimeters

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or on 20, that's a recommendation for repair for the customer.

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OK, that's the minimum limit the manufacturer gives you.

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We're checking for cracks and uneven wear or any high spots
where it's gone blue.

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So that discs OK as a unit so we can refit,

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OK, brake pads themselves,

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they are sided.

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So if we push this unit forward,

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there's a metal spring clip that holds it together

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can be a bit stubborn,
so watch your fingers when it's coming out.

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So there's the outer pad,

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and then the inner pad will come out through the gap.

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OK, so the brake pads

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themselves, we're checking for integrity on the pads,
we're checking for any cracks or wear.

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In there there's a slight chip on there.

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I wouldn't be overly concerned
with that on a customer's vehicle.

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The friction material is bonded on.

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So if there's an issue with that becoming unstuck,
that's dangerous to use.

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And then we ring the customer up and tell them to replace.

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Engineering practice, good practices to replace
pads and discs as one unit because they wear together.

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If you put new pads on old desks,
they'll wear out prematurely and an incorrect angle

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and then you'll be replacing the whole set sooner
than you should have to anyway.

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So good engineering practice pads and discs on

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both sides to save uneven brake wear or poor performance.

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OK, so brake pads we can measure, you can use a steel rule.

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I quite like using a tread depth gauge
because it makes life a lot easier.

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So we put the gauge on there, push through to measure.

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And if we have a look on there,
we've got twelve millimeters of friction material left.

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OK, the MOT legal limit is 1.5 mm.

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Okay, but we have to measure it.

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We can't measure that on an MOT because we can't even
take the wheels off, so we have to have a best guess.

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I would say if it's two millimeters, I'd recommend

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replacing them for the customer
because it won't make the next service

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. OK, so we've checked the pads on both sides.

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We can measure this one.

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And yep, we're at twelve, which I'd expect
because they're a new unit.

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if one pad is worn more than the other.

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There's either an issue with the slider pins themselves, it's stuck

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or we've got an issue with the brake caliper piston.

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OK, so while we've got the caliper off,

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we can check the piston condition.

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So we've got the slider sleeves there,
we make sure they're free of dirt and debris.

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We've got a caliper seal.

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All that seal does is protect the piston surfaces from dirt
ingress.

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OK, it's not the end of this caliper if that seal is split,
as long as the components are corrosion free.

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We can advise it and then refit.

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Your piston itself.

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There's a little bit of corrosion on the inside.

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That's not a cause for concern, and we're just going
to check it for free movement when we reassemble.
