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So I've just pasted
 the paper I'm going to use

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for the return from the face of chimney
 breast to the back wall.

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Now for this demonstration,
 we've just got two bits.

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If it was the whole wall
 from ceiling down to the floor,

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it would be four or five pieces of paper.

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So rather than just trying to paste four

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bits or two bits of paper
 this size with a nine inch roller.

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All I've done is I've pasted it's
 all in one length.

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I've now just folded it into the required
 amount, in this case into two.

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I could have done an end to center fold
 if I needed four pieces,

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but I just needed two
 so I folded it in half, making

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sure each side lines up.

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And that way, I know
 when I'm cutting along the edge here.

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I am getting a nice 90 degree finish.

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So that means in rather than trying to do
 some fiddly pasting

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with a large roller
 on a small piece of paper.

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As I said, I just paste
 the whole piece of paper

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and then cut it after it's pasted. 

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So just to finish off,
 we've got to the front of

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the chimney breast is now cross
 lined, as is the long part of the wall.

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So we just need to fill in this gap.

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So all we're going to do now
 is take the small pieces of paper

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that we've already pasted, open these.

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Just put them from front to back.

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Just looking for my line there. OK.

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Smooth it out now, as you can see, we've

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gone back round the internal
 corner and we have an overlap

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on the external corner. 

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Neither of which we want. So 

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again, different ways of doing this.

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So let's try and use a bit of everything.

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So. Back of the scissors just going down

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the internal corner there. Peel it away.

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And then just following the crease.

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So this does work well. 

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If you've got decent
 light in low light levels,

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you will obviously need the pencil. 

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But I've got some good light just here.

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 up I go.

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And then just lay that off. 

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Now you can see that's nice
 and tight into the corner.

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So just by way of variation
 along the top edge

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again, the scissors would work, 

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or the shears sorry, the pencil line
 with the shears would work.

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And there we have an example of why

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the knife isn't always the best,

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because where the paper soaks
 is started to tear rather than cut.

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So before you just go
 leaping for the knife

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because you think it's faster
 it does have the odd drawback.

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So shears to the rescue.

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Just that slightly ragged edge there,
 we don't really want that. So.

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Neat little trim there with the scissors.

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Puts that right. 

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That just leaves us now
 with the front edge. 

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Now we've got in tight here.

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Tight along the top. 

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With the front edge, we're actually going
 to come back in just about five mils.

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The reason for this If we come flush

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with the front face or even overlap it,

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if people walk past and start brushing it,
 after a while, it tears the paper back.

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Obviously not ideal. 

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So we form our crease
and I've found over the years.

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That forming a crease
 or pencil line again,

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I'm going to go with the crease here,
 because I've got good light.

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If not, just take the pencil down
 the corner - just the edge of the pencil.

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That forms a gray line,
 which you are then using as a guide.

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You're not cutting along it. 

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So just using my crease for a guide.

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Just slowly cutting up. 

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Lay that flat and you can see 

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I'm just a couple of mils to five miles back
 in from the edge. Alright.

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And that is how we form
 the last little piece.

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And then, as always, center
 out to the edges

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to make sure there are no
 air bubbles left.

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And that's how we fill in the gap.
