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Hello.

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For the purposes of this video today, we're going to have
a look at Camshaft removal and inspection.

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We're going to have a look at inlet and exhaust valves,
removing them from the cylinder head and inspection.

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And then in a later video we're going to have a look
at measuring cylinder head for any warp that's occurred

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if it's overheated.

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And then how to refit the valves
and check them for correct fitment.

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Okay.

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So first things first, camshaft itself is mounted on stands.

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What I'll do is remove the camshaft
and then we'll take it out of the stands and turn it over.

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We've taken the manifolds and all the ancillaries off.

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So we've just basically got a bare cylinder
the head without the rocker arms in.

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Okay, the keeper plate on here, holds the camshaft and prevents it
from floating backwards and forwards during operation.

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So we'll just take the two bolts out of this.

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Super. So that's the keeper plate itself.

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There's a witness mark on there

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where it's been running in the cylinder head,
so we make sure we refit it in the correct direction.

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With cylinder heads
it's quite vital to have yourself a clear bench area,

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keep the items in the order you take them off
and that will help reassembly later.

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It's good engineering practice because components
wear to each other, so if you start to swap items about,

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you can have increased wear
or poor performance in the components.

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Okay.

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So we can now remove the camshaft itself.

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We'll leave the sprocket on just to make it easier to move.

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We can just gently push it through from the back

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and then it will, with a bit of a seal on it, slide out.

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Okay.

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So we can remove that from there.

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We can pop that on the bench to inspect it.

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It's got an oil seal down there.

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So if we were servicing this when we refit it
we'll remove that sprocket

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and then we'll replace that seal to prevent
any leaks later on.

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Okay.

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So the camshaft itself, we can give it a clean over.

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It's a good indication
of how an engine has been looked after.

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So apart from tarnishing on
some of the lobes is some pretty good nick overall.

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So we could take it to an engineering firm and get it
checked.

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They can check for any warp in the camshaft
and any undue wear in the lobes.

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Ok, the sprocket itself.

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We can check that just to see if there's any wear on there

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that could damage the timing belt when we're replacing it.

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Generally, if we replace the bolt-
if we replace the sprocket or remove it,

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we should replace the bolt
and obviously tighten it up to the correct torque setting.

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Okay.

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So while we've got in the cylinder head here,
we can give these surfaces a wipe off on the inside

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and check the bearing races
to see where the camshaft been running.

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This camshaft itself obviously, it's a hardened item,
but it runs inside an aluminum cylinder head.

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OK, so if there's any oil supply issues here
because that component is a lot harder

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than the cylinder head, it will actually wear the head away
and it will cause oil pressure issues later on.

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Unfortunately,
there's no way of servicing these and repairing them.

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So if it is excessively worn,
unfortunately, it's going to be a replacement item.

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Okay.

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So what I'm going to do
is I'm going to lift it off the stands

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and then we'll turn it on its side and we'll remove
a couple of valves on the inlet and exhaust side.

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Right.

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Actually, what I'll do is I'll invert the head
while we've got it.

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So generally as a rule is
the camshaft is still in the cylinder head.

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Some of these valves will be open,
so we can't put the head flat on the bench.

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On this occasion because we've taken it out,
the valves are all fitted flush and we could turn this over.

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The only thing to note really
is this dowel fitted in the head.

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Generally there's one
at least there may be two in this cylinder head.

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And these locate the cylinder head on to the block. Okay.

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If these are damaged it will lead to damage to the gaskets
and poor location of the head when you refit it.

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So as a rule, if you're replacing the cylinder head gasket,
you've gone to this much trouble

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to strip the engine: order
some dowels as well to go with it and replace these.

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They will come out with a pair of pliers

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and then you drift them in with soft faced hammer
until they fit flush in the cylinder head.

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Okay, so we've got two valves, we've got inlet and exhaust.

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Okay.

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So generally rule the inlet valve is the bigger one
and the exhaust valve is the smaller one.

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Okay so they're hardened and they fit into hardened seats

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and then we will remove a couple of valves
and then we'll have a look inside.

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So what we can do with this
in, for the cylinder heads, is we're looking for any wear

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or any kind of excessive sign of pitting or damage.

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Some heads do go porous and that means they absorb moisture
and it starts to

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degrade the kind of integrity of the head.

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If you've got that kind of problem, then really you need
to take it to an engineering firm and get them to assess

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whether it's going to be worth repairing
or whether it's actually going to need replacement.

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Okay. So what we can do now is we can have a look
and we can check for a warp

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or bow in the head
if it's overheated because it's made from aluminum.

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Okay.

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And to do this,
we use a straight edge and we use a set of feeler gauges.

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And we're going to measure it in three planes.

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So we're going to measure from end to end.

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We're going to measure from corner to corner,
and we're going to measure from side to side.

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And that way, by measuring in three different angles,
that will give us a true picture of how much bow

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is actually across the head.

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So the first inspection
we do take the worst of the gasket off.

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It doesn't have to be 100% clean
as long as you've got a fairly smooth surface

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and then we can just put the straight edge across.

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And what we're doing
is we're trying to look basically to see

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if we've got any light visible from underneath.

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If we haven't, then it's fairly safe
to assume that it's going to be good.

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Okay, so we can go across those
and then we can go from corner

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to corner to allow for any twists
that might have occurred in the head.

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I'll get a very small feeler gauge, just as a double check.

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But I think we'll find with this we're probably okay

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so I've got a .06 millimeter gauge.

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If we run that across yep.

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That won't fit anywhere in there.

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So if you look on the manufacturer's specifications,
it will actually give you

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a maximum wear limit for bow, or warp.

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Then we can check across that edge as well.

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Yep, that is within tolerance, I think, it's very slight.

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So what I would suggest is on initial inspection
that looks okay.

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I would say if you've had a vehicle
that's overheated, it's worth

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getting the head skimmed
and pressure tested by an engineering firm.

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It's a specialist job
and generally most garages won't undertake that.

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They'll send it away and get it tested.

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But for a relatively small sum,
we can tell them whether the head

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has been warped
and we can pressure test it to see if there's any cracks.

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Generally cracks show up quite easily, but if it's a really
small cracks, then it won't show up to the naked eye.

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So pressure testing is the way to go.

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Okay, so for the next section of this video,
what I'll do is I'll turn the head on its side

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and then we'll remove a couple of valves
and then we'll inspect the seats and the valve guides.
