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So in this film, we're going 

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to look at silver soldering 

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and we're going to use silver solder,

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some flux and we're going to solder up

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our little copper practice pieces.

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We're going to use this silver solder 

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and really they are

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sort of strips of silver,

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but they have a little additive, 

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just a little bit of zinc,

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which reduces the melting

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temperature of the metal

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so that you can join two pieces together

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by just melting the contact surfaces

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for a split second,

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and they fuze together,

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so it becomes one piece.

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It's not like a glue at all.

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The metals merge together 

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and becomes one piece. 

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The reason for the 

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two different strips is once 

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this is called hard silver solder

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and it's got a melting temperature

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of about 170 degrees. 

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And this is called easy silver solder

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and it melts at about 680 degrees.

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The reason for that 

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is that if you are doing 

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multiple soldering joints, 

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then you could start off with the hard, 

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the high melting temperature 

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and 

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and do subsequent soldering joints

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with the easy silver 

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so that the whole thing 

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doesn't fall to pieces 

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while you are soldering.

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We generally use the hard

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silver solder, mostly

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because it matches the silver color better

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so you can get an invisible join.

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We're going to prepare the metal for soldering

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so that really there's  two main rules for soldering. 

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The first rule is that it's 

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got to be a really good join, no gaps, 

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and it's got to sit nicely together 

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if you're trying to  force things together. 

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It tends not to work very well. 

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What we've got is a very simple, 

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flat piece of metal 

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and a bit of curved wall

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that we're going to solder together. 

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So the second rule is that it's 

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got to be a really good clean surface.

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And the edge of this little wall 

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that we're going to solder 

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on is quite easy to clean. 

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And we use a file

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just to brighten up this edge,

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and it also makes it 

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so it's nice and flat.

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And with big files like this, 

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you always push them. 

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They cut on the push, 

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if you go backwards 

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and forwards is going to gum up the file,

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so just always push 

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with the file. 

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And in our case, 

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we want a nice, clean surface 

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and now it sits on there 

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and we can't see 

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any daylight going through. 

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So it's ready for the next process.

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The next step, we've 

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got to clean this bit of metal. 

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We could file it, 

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but we might have a nice texture 

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or some sort of detail 

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that we didn't want to mark.

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So we're going to use 

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toothbrushes and 

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pumice powder, and you can see

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by running the water over it 

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that there's so much grease 

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on the surface of the metal 

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that the water won't stick to it. 

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We're going to

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wet our 

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little toothbrush and 

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just dip it into this pumice powder

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and pumice powder. 

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Pumice is a thing that you use in

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getting rid of hard skin and things, 

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but it's in powdered form. 

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So it's a fine, abrasive powder

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and it's great for cutting through 

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grease and dirt, 

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and we just hold it by the edge

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and give it a good scrub. 

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And it does abrade the metal,

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but it's so fine a scratch,

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that you can soon 

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polish it back up with a polishing,

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which will look at a little bit later.

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So once you've given it a good scrub,

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hold it by the edges

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because there's always 

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a bit of grease on your fingers.

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And then if you run it on the tap,

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then you can see that 

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the water sticks to the surface now.

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And that's so that's a good indication

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that it's nice and grease free.

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For this step. 

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We're going to we've prepared 

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the metal for soldering. 

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We're going to set up the piece

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ready for soldering and 

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and then do the soldering. 

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The first step is

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to make sure that the metal stays clean.

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And when we were annelling 

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in the last video,

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we were, we heated the metal up

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and it turned black, it oxidized.

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And what we've got to 

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do, we've got to stop that from happening

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and how we do that 

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is we use a thing called a flux

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and what a flux does 

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is protect the area

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and the solder and 

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keeps the joint nice and clean. 

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In jewelry we use a borax flux

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and in this case, this is a borax cone.

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And what it is at Borax is is a mineral

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and it's used in

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cleaning fluids and 

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washing powders and things. 

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But in jewelry, the properties

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are as you heat it up.

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What happens is the borax

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creates like a glassy coating

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onto the surface of the metal, 

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and that creates a barrier to the

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atmosphere. 

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And the sort of oxygen in the flame.

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So it stops the metal from oxidizing.

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It comes with a little dish

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and we put a bit of water in 

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and we rub it around and it creates like

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a milky paste. 

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And it doesn't want to be too watery

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or to sort of pasty just sort of creamy,

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and that's ready to paint on the surface.

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So we've cleaned the metal 

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and we've put the metal on a raised brick

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so we can get the heat 

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all the way around. 

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So for a start, we 

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paint the borax onto

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the surface of the metal, 

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and you can never have too much borax 

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because once you've 

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completed the soldering 

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it can go in the pickle 

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and the borax will be dissolved 

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away by the acid. 

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And because this is a liquid,

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we don't have to worry 

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about painting the edge here

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in this particular joint. 

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We can just sit it into the 

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into the liquid flux. 

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Other soldering 

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you may have to paint all the joints.

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So and then we're going 

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to use our little solder strip

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and we're going to use the hard solder.

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And what I've done is 

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cut a little strip off 

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and I've cleaned it 

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with the pumice pounder. 

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So it's nice and grease 

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free and dirt free as well.

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And then we're going to cut the strip,

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which is a bit tricky, 

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but you can get pliers 

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that do it for you. 

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But we're just cutting them 

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with the shears 

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and we cut like little fingers.

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Because it's a really good join

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we only need a very 

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small amount of solder 

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and we just cut across

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the little fingers. 

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So it just gives us

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some small pieces 

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called payliens as small pieces.

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So, we've fluxed the metal

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and then with the brush

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that we used to paint the flux

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on, it's a bit fiddly,

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but we'll pick them up.

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So it's sort of scooping effect. 

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And by doing that, 

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then we're coating the little pieces 

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of solder with the borax flux as well,

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and we'll put those anywhere we like.

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I think one piece would be enough,

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but it would be embarrassing 

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if it didn't work. 

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So we'll put two pieces on 

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and then we'll be able to see the solder

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run along the joint.

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So we've fluxed the

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piece, we put it in position. 

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We've got it all nice and settled. 

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We're not forcing it 

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together or anything. 

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If you start forcing 

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the solder to join together, 

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then it just makes it harder work.

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So try and whatever 

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join you're going to do, make it

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so it so that wants to be joined.

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And so you don't 

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have to force it together. 

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I've got this is called a solder pick,

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and it's just titanium wire, 

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with a pointed end, 

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and it's great for moving 

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little pieces of solder 

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as things are heated up. 

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I've got our tweezers 

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if we need to pick anything up

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and these are called 

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reverse action tweezers. 

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You squeeze them to let go 

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and they're great for just 

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holding things quite gently.

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But they're 

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opposite to the tweezers, 

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so you squeeze those to let go 

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and you nip those. 

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So they're ready 

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and are solder pick we might need.

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So just make sure everything's in place

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and then we get a nice little flame.

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And with the flame, 

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it has a little blue sharp point

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with the flame, 

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and the point of that flame

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is the hottest bit. 

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If you go to near, 

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it gets colder at the point

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you can see that 

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solder heats up quite quickly.

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But if you move towards, it cools down.

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So don't go too near 

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with the flame, basically. 

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So as we go along, 

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we'll keep the flame moving 

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and you can see the water evaporates

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and it leaves a sort of

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crystalline coating on the surface. 

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So what we've got to do, it's

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very easy to heat up the wall.

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So we've got to keep the flame moving

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so we can heat the background

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and the wall at the same time,

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they solder will run to the hottest bit.

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So if we have the wall too hot,

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then it would run up the wall.

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If they had the base too hot,

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it would run along the base. 

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So we've got to get that happy medium.

281
00:10:57,180 --> 00:10:58,400
The solder has got 

282
00:10:58,400 --> 00:10:59,940
to be touching both bits 

283
00:10:59,940 --> 00:11:02,380
and as you see it gets to temperature,

284
00:11:02,380 --> 00:11:03,920
you can see their solder 

285
00:11:03,920 --> 00:11:05,440
running along the seam. 

286
00:11:05,440 --> 00:11:07,020
And if you can sort of 

287
00:11:07,020 --> 00:11:08,960
draw it along as well, 

288
00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,700
so you can see shimmering,

289
00:11:11,700 --> 00:11:13,680
perhaps in the light, 

290
00:11:13,680 --> 00:11:16,700
once it's run all the way along the join,

291
00:11:16,700 --> 00:11:19,080
then just take the heat off

292
00:11:19,080 --> 00:11:25,780
and it'll solidify.

293
00:11:25,780 --> 00:11:27,680
Once cooled down 

294
00:11:27,680 --> 00:11:30,440
a little bit, then just quench it

295
00:11:30,440 --> 00:11:34,280
straight away in the water.

296
00:11:34,280 --> 00:11:37,220
And we can see 

297
00:11:37,220 --> 00:11:39,380
that the solders run 

298
00:11:39,380 --> 00:11:42,840
all the way round on the insid

299
00:11:42,840 --> 00:11:43,580
because we've got 

300
00:11:43,580 --> 00:11:45,600
the heat perfectly right 

301
00:11:45,600 --> 00:11:47,300
and you can see this 

302
00:11:47,300 --> 00:11:49,100
sort of glassy coating, 

303
00:11:49,100 --> 00:11:50,540
the borax has left 

304
00:11:50,540 --> 00:11:52,640
and that's protected the metal. 

305
00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:56,060
And if we wanted to get rid of that,

306
00:11:56,060 --> 00:11:59,100
then we could put it into the pickle

307
00:11:59,100 --> 00:12:02,140
and the acid would eat into the pickle

308
00:12:02,140 --> 00:12:04,420
and clean all the metal up.

309
00:12:04,420 --> 00:12:06,700
You can see the under side

310
00:12:06,700 --> 00:12:08,600
sort of oxidized a bit 

311
00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:11,240
and you see all this black oxidisation

312
00:12:11,240 --> 00:12:12,780
and on the wall. 

313
00:12:12,780 --> 00:12:15,380
But where we put the Borax,

314
00:12:15,380 --> 00:12:17,640
it's kept the metal nice and clean

315
00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:19,800
and we can sort of bend this 

316
00:12:19,800 --> 00:12:21,460
and it's so strong that you know 

317
00:12:21,460 --> 00:12:24,000
you could hammer it and bend it.

318
00:12:24,000 --> 00:12:26,720
And it would all stay together 

319
00:12:26,720 --> 00:12:29,540
until it became work hardened

320
00:12:29,540 --> 00:12:32,900
and so that's nicely joined together.
