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So this is the second 

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video of our flat mould series,
 we have got four videos.

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thats
 going to be going through the process

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with you of making a flat mould
 and also apply it.

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The first video I was showing you
 some sculpting techniques in this video

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we're going to be achieving this
 as our final outcome.

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So we've got the sculpt in the middle. 

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We've
 got this flashing area around the edge

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and then we've also got our wall as well,
 which is going to hold all the product

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inside the mold
 and stop it running everywhere.

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Because at the end of this video
 we're going to have a flat mould piece

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that we're going to be able to run,
 which will be video number three.

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And then I'll show you the application
 of that video number four.

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So to start off with, I've just rolled out
 a thin sausage shape of chavant,

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and you can use other things, I like to
 use a clay extruder to do this as well.

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And all I'm going to do
 is I'm going to go around my mould

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as close to the edge as possible.

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You want to be about two
 to three millimeters away

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from the edge of your sculpt.

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And I'm just going to press this
 edging down.

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So this is going to create the flashing,
 so this area,

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when we come to running the piece

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we'll technically be flooding this area

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with some silicon
 because that's going to help to protect

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the edges of our silicon appliance
 once we have once

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we've made it. 

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Now what I'm going to do next 

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is we want to create 

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a pyramid 

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or like a Toblerone shape
 with the top cut off.

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So I'm just going to show you
 a little piece on here, I'm using

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one of my loop tools,
 which is in a diamond shape

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to create a Toblerone.

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And then I'm just going
 to take one of my other loop tools,

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which is a triangle shape
 and I'm just going to take the point off.

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So this is what we wanted to achieve

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with our flashing area here.

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So I'm just going to smooth the edging 

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now, and I am just checking

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the space of our flashing area,
 we're roughly about two

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to three millimeters around there,
 so that's going to have a nice thin

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edge, 

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you don't want to
 go in any further out with your flashing

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because what will happen with
 this is you end up having a lot of excess

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cap plastic on there,
 which can also wrinkle as well

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when you do in your application. 

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Just use a rolling pin 

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to give me a nice, smooth
 piece of chavant.

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Next, I'm going to build this wall
 area here, so this is what's going

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to keep all our silicon
 inside the mould when we pour it

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and stop it from spilling over the sides.

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So you want to make sure that your wall

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is higher
 than the highest point of your sculpt

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and you can either roll out
 one large piece to go all the way around.

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Or you can do it in sections,
 and all I'm going to do

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is just place the
 clay again a few millimeters

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away from my where Ive done my 

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the edge of the flashing. 

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Just adding on another piece, 

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I'm just going to make sure
 that's blended together

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with the piece before 

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you want to make sure
 you haven't got any gaps in this

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because you don't want your silicon
 to leak when you fill it.

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And then once 

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you've gone all the way around,
 you'll have something

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that looks like this,
 which is ready for moulding.

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So next thing to do is I'm going
 to put some rice into the mould

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because this is going to 

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give me roughly the weight
 of how much silicon I need to use.

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I'm just going to pop some cling film into
 my mould

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just to help protect it. 

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And also so it's
 easier to get the rice out.

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And then I'm just going to 

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place some rice inside the walls.

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And then I've got my scales here. 

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I'm just going to remove the rice
 and weigh how much I've got.

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So I've roughly got almost 30 grams
 of rice in here, so I'm going to be

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mixing up 30 grams of silicon
 all together to fill in my mould.

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So I've just sprayed the mold
 with some PET release,

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this isn't essential,
 but I just find it to be just easier

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for peeling the flat mould out
 when we come to doing that.

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So I've got my scales here with my tub,
 we're using Key-22 silicone.

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So this silicone is mixed
 50/50 parts A and B,

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make sure when you're working with this,
 you don't get the parts mixed up

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because if you contaminate
 either of these tubs with the other part,

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it will cure up and spoil
 the product for you.

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So first part I'm going to mix is the A.

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So the A 

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is the catalyst and the B is the base.

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And I've got my gloves on
 and I've just got an apron as well

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to protect my clothes. 

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So when I measured out the rice
 to see how much we needed,

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it was around about the 30 gram mark. 

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So I'm going to mix up
 15 grams of A and 15 grams of B.

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So I've double gloved
 so I can change my gloves in between

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to make sure that I wasn't mixing
 either of the parts with each other.

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So the part A is white

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and Part B is blue.

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So theres the pot. 

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I've got the parts
 A and B in there of Key-22.

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Next, I'm going to mix the parts together
 and then I'm going to go over

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to the degasser. 

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What the degassing does is it 

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removes the majority of the air bubbles
 within the silicone.

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So that means when you pour in your mould
 it reduces the chance of having any

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air bubbles that might damage the detail
 or anything like that within your mould.

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So the degasser creates a vacuum
 which removes the air

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from the chamber
 that silicon has been been placed in,

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and this takes the air out of the silicon
 and helps to reduce bubbles within it.

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But not everyone has a degasser
 so I'm just going to show you

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a little technique to use
 if you haven't got access to one.

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I've just mixed up some more Key-22
 silicon, and I'm just going to pour this

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from a height, nice and thin to cover up

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my sculpt. 

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Pouring from a height nice 

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and thin helps to reduce the bubbles
 within the mixture.

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So now I've filled up my mould 

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I'm just going to tap it on the surface,

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and what the tapping
 does is help to nudge, It

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helps to 

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remove bubbles, so you'll see bubbles
 then coming to the surface.

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So the little vibrations
 go through the tile

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and just 

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loosen any of the air bubbles
 that we may have within

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the product.

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Key-22 has a pot life of 15 minutes,
 so thats your working time with it.

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And the demould time of one to two hours.

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It's temperature dependent, 

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so the warmer the room that you're in,
 the quicker the silicon will cure.

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On the other side of things
 the colder the room is,

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the longer it's
 going to take silicon to cure up as well.

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So join us for for the following video
 where we're going to be

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taking out our moulds and getting them
 prepared for running them with silicon.

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So then to be able to produce
 a silicon appliance which can be used

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within your prosthetic
 makeup applications.