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Now, the infill, we're going 

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to go from the front of the chimney breast
 to the back wall.

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Now, when we were cross lining, 

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we had four individual bits
 going from the ceiling down to the floor.

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This time it's just going to be the one
 piece because it's a vertical drop.

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And again, I've trimmed this more or less to fit before I try and hang it

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because this is a 35 centimeter gap.

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The paper is 53. 

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I don't want 20 odd
 centimeters of paper flapping around

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and the cuts I've also taken off the edge.

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I'm going to trim
 anyway on the internal corner.

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That way the edge
 I'm going to have down here on the outside

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is the machined edge from the factory,
 so it would be much straighter.

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So, as always, work the paper down
 just a few inches.

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And let it drop. 

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This time I am using 

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the front of the wall, OK, as my upright.

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Not often I do that. 

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And you can see I've just started

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a few millimeters in, no more than five.

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I need the overlap. 

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But I can't have this paper,  as previously shown,
 poking past the front.

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Otherwise it catches. 

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So we make sure the paper is
 just behind the front edge.

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And then brush back into the corner,
 contact with the ceiling edge.

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Poke the paper in 

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and working my way down using my hands
 just to support the paper

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and then the brush to remove the air
 bubbles. Now we do have.

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A socket here or a representation
 of a socket, at least.

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Just about there. 

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So we'll just discuss the technique
 about cutting around the socket.

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We can loosen these
 to allow us to tuck the paper behind.

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Don't take the sockets off, though. 

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We are not electricians,
 we are decorators. Right

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now, this particular
 one is fixed to the wall. 

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You can see I've come down
 and I'm forming the crease

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here along the back edge of the socket.

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Now we can see where the corners are. 

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So can't really do an awful lot more until

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I've cut round the socket. 

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Do not be tempted to get your knife.

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And your scraper 

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and do this, you just run the risk
 of putting a great big cross

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on the customer's socket,
 and they won't thank you for that .

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So all we may need the knife for

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is just to get a little split
 and I'm pulling away from the socket here.

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Just to form a small hole.

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The end of the shears will do the same. 

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We just use a knife
 so I can now put the shears behind there

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and my top corner. 

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I can mark it with a pencil. 

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Or I could use a crease. 

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And up I cut to the top corner.

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From the center to the corner,
 and you can see the wood chip paper

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or the wood ingrained paper
 does try and resist.

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Now I go back in the other direction. 

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Alright. Just for the camera
 let's stick a pencil line on there.

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So this is the back of the socket.

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And that is the corner. 

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I don't want to cut any further than that.

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So I could peel this away, why struggle?

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Right now, then what I should have.

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Is. The paper now sitting
 neatly in the top edge, OK, you just see

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started to open. 

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So just trace down. 

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And we can just mark the edge here,

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and it's that corner I'm after. 

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And again, let's just peel this away.

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Trying to keep stuff tight to the wall
 when you're using shears,

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it's making hard work for yourself,
 so just pull away slightly.

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And. There we go.

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We're now starting to go around
 just the back edge.

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So again, you can use the creases

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or just use a pencil mark.

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Now then what we will have is

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four triangular shaped bits
 sticking out from the wall in second.

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Alright, so let's just push those back. 

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Get the paper. Against the wall.

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And we just check that it's lying
 nice and flat and it is.

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Now, we need to work quite quickly.

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So that is now lying  flat so we can put our final marks

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again, crease or pencil 

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just around the outside.

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Make sure that's under there, 

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that it's a nice right angle.

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Now, rather than try and cut
 tight to the wall, 

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I just gently lift this away. 

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And you can see coming into view
 now all these nice, crisp pencil lines

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So now it's just a case. 

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Of cutting along. 

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Into the corners. 

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And as always, you can hear the woodchip
 not cooperating.

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There we go. 

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 And again, nice and gently

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push that round. 

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Here we have now 

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neatly cut laying
 nice of flat around the socket.

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Smooth down. OK, just to check,
 make sure it's lying flat.

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Then again, with the woodchip.

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The crease can be followed-
 it is a little harder.

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So nothing wrong with
 a gently placed pencil line.

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Right, all the way up, if necessary,

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or just use the crease. 

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And again, peel the paper
 away from the wall,

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but be gentle about it,
 we don't want to stretch the paper.

106
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Okay, so that's the bottom sorted.

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And just work our way.

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Up the edge of the paper.

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Again, it's always worth 

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just pulling the paper away from the wall
 slightly, it makes it so much easier.

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Alright. By way of demonstration,
 if I just try and trim

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keeping it tight to the wall. 

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Again, it's just
 making it hard for myself. 

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So I just pull it away slightly.

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We could just go all the way to the top. 

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Following that line. 

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And then back into the corner

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and you can see where we've come round.

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Underneath where we get the overlap because we've
 come into an internal corner.

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That is virtually invisible. 

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By the time that has been painted
 that will disappear

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and the joint will be no more. 

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And we'll just continue that 

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all the way to the top. 

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And then as usual, with the sponge
 and clean water, wipe down the joints.

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Carefully wipe down the socket,
 bearing in mind it's electricity.

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Worth turning off the power and only
 using a damp sponge, you don't want

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shed loads of water
 going behind the sockets or switches.

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So that's how you
 would get round a socket.
