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In this video, we'll be looking at 

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the metal that we're going 

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to use to texture, 

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the hammers and the different punches.

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So we must first 

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look at the metal we're going to use

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and we're going to use copper

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and we've cut it into little strips

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so that we can experiment with it.

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The reason we use copper 

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is that it's quite inexpensive 

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and all the techniques that we use

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on the piece of copper 

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we can transfer those to certainly silver

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and gold. 

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So it's a good metal

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to be practicing with.

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It's got a very high melting temperature.

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So when we start to heat it up,

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we're not going to worry about 

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melting things. 

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But in this case, 

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we're going to use it to put texture.

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Experiment how we can put 

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texture on a piece of metal.

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The first technique, it's 

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quite a simple technique, 

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and you will have seen it 

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on pieces of jewelry, pendants and rings.

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And it's it's a hammered finish.

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And we've placed the 

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copper strip onto our metal block

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and we're using the polished hammer.

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So we get a nice, polished dimpled

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hammer mark. 

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And just by holding it,

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and we don't need to hit very hard 

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because the copper is quite a soft metal,

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so we'll just 

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hammer away and we can. 

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And we can build up 

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little panels of texture,

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and because it's a polished hammer. 

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You can see that the little hammer

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marks catch the light 

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because it gives a nice, 

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polished dimple mark. 

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The next simple texturing

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technique is texturing with a hammerhead.

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You can buy specially made hammers

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that have got little texture

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on the hammer faces, 

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but you could also 

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go to a very cheap hammer

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and then file your own pattern,

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then to the head itself, 

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because they're quite 

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they're quite soft, 

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really the some of the cheaper hammers.

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But once you've got your 

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hammer texture on the head,

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then again using the metal plate

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and you don't have to hammer 

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really hard, it's just a good, 

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concentrated blow.

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And very quickly, you can 

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cover a lot of metal, 

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and it gives you 

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these sort of barked effect

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because it's not polished, 

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isn't isn't as reflective

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as the doming hammer, 

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but it gives a really good effect

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over a ring or a pendant.

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So this is a little jewelers hammer.

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And it's been adapted a little bit.

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And what we've done, 

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we've filed the one of the heads

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to a sort of sharp 

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chiseled shape point and polished it.

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So we've got a nice, polished face.

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And again, we're using it

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on the metal plate

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and we're just going to go over 

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building up the pattern. 

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And quite quickly, 

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you can build up quite a good pattern

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and you can see that 

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because we've gone 

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in different directions. 

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They light, the different facets

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of the hammer blows catch the light.

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And this is useful 

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and a nice little texturing

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technique for using, like for earrings

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that are going to be moving all the time.

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So they catch the light. 

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We're going to look at using punches.

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So with the punches, 

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you can get a more precise 

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hammer mark or texture

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because you can get the punch

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exactly where you want it to be.

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We're just going to use a jobbing hammer,

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which is like sort of an ordinary hammer,

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but in jewelry trade 

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we call them a jobbing hammer. 

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And it's great for using on punches.

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Doesn't want to be too heavy, 

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but not too light. 

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And a good 

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tip is to tape down your piece of metal

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because as using a punch in one hand

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and a hammer in the other, 

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you can't control 

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what the metal is doing. 

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And we're going to look first 

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at this chisel end punch,

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and it's again, we've polished it up. 

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But 

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by resting your hand 

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on the metal plate 

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and sort of using it as a spring

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and then using the hammer

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to give you a nice repeat blows,

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we can work across the surface

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and we can get it a little 

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bit more precise and we can go

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and repeat pattern 

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across the along the edges.

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Building up patterns 

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around the piece of metal 

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and these could be rings or 

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little earrings. 

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And this technique, 

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we're going to use letter punches

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and letter punches come in various sizes,

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and these are sort of about six 

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millimeter letters. 

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And these are three millimeter letters,

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mostly on punches 

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they all have either 

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writing or the letter 

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on one side of the punch. 

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This helps so you can see what letter

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it is, but also if you have your thumb

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over the letter, 

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whichever hand you're going to use, it's

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going to be the right way around. 

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And it's quite infuriating

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when you get to the end 

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of a long sentence. 

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The last letters upside down, 

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so always try and get this

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the punch in the right way round.

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I've taped down one of the little

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pieces of copper, 

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and we're going to use 

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the edge of the tape as a simple punch.

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Simple line to smart

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where our punch is going to go.

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And we can use the punch 

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and just slide it down 

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to the edge of the tape.

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And you can feel the edge 

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so you'll always get it 

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in a straight line. 

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And then instead of doing one big punch,

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which you might get it perfectly right.

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Do three or four, normal sized punches.

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And sort of do North, East, South, West

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and then you'd always 

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get a full punch mark from the punch.